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For all travelerthere's that rare moment when you find yourself in front of a medieval town that hasn't sold its soul to the hordes of tourists eating overpriced ice cream. That's exactly how I felt at Bargathis little Tuscan jewel set between hills and mountains in the Serchio valleyfar from the obese camera crowds. A city that guidebooks often skim, but that only the curious take the time to really get to grips with. Yes, be prepared to fall in love... or wince when you see a bus full of retired Germans parked in front of the Porta Reale (which does happen... but rarely).

Why choose Barga to explore Tuscany rather than Florence or Siena?

Florence the cover? Leave her the giant selfie-stick! Bargawith its 10,000 inhabitants (source: Istat, Italy's national statistics institute), offers a radically different experience. No endless queues in front of the cathedral, no fake plastic gladiators. On the program: circular lanesOld stones covered in moss and silence disturbed only by the Duomo bell. In short, the Tuscan cliché... but slow life version.

Imagine sitting on a café terrace, sipping a full-bodied espresso, as a two-hundred-year-old grandpa tells you how, in his youth, "there were more cats here than tourists". He hardly ever lies. Most of the time, it's still true. This simple happiness, to be savored morning, noon or even at sunset on the Apuan Alps - That's why coming back here every year is my little inner ritual.

Unique atmosphere and Italian authenticity

Here, every wall seems to have been hand-painted by an artist drunk with golden light. Visit pastel facades change nuance depending on the time of day, and sometimes you can even smell clean laundry wafting between two narrow streets. Nothing to do with Pisa and its procession of street vendors shouting "Photo! Selfie! À Bargaeven the cats seem to be smiling more... or else they're asleep, lulled to sleep by the softness of the Tuscan hills.

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Between the ficus trees hidden on rickety balconies and the heated conversations in local dialect, it's impossible not to feel that typically Italian human warmth. My memories are full of these exchanges where we talk about the latest jazz festival (Barga hosts a rather mythical event every summer) than the furtive passage of a wild boar across the main square.

The discreet charm of a medieval town... far from the hackneyed clichés

Yes, the definition of medieval town is sometimes overused, especially when it's used to sell lukewarm wine in San Gimignano. But in BargaThe old town, nestling on its central hill, proudly wears its worn cobblestones. We meander from square to square, stopping in front of the Unfinished Duomo which dominates the Serchio valleyand enjoy a breathtaking view of the Garfagnana and Apuan Alps. With a bit of luck (and a lot of breath), we push on to the summit to see the misty line of the mountains cut across the horizon, majestic and indifferent to the passage of time.

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Whether you're a history buff, a lover of Romanesque architecture, or just looking to cool off during a Florentine heatwave, walking through Barga is a constant invitation to slow down. The thick walls are a natural chill for weary travelers (and worth all the glittering fans on the Ponte Vecchio).

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Barga: between wild nature and preserved Tuscan traditions

The best-kept secret of Barga may not be its cathedral or its festivals, but the natural setting that surrounds it. Caught between Garfagnana and the Serchio valleyframed by the Tuscan hills and mountains of the Apuan Alpsthe town offers a multitude of possibilities for grumbling against the modern world... in peace and quiet. And what could be better, frankly, than a morning stroll surrounded by centuries-old vines and olive trees?

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Among the Tuscan towns you must explore during your stay are Luccawhose authentic charm is the perfect complement to a nature getaway around Barga.

Let's be honest: if you like crowded beaches, selfie stands and frozen pizzas, move on. Otherwise, follow me on this picturesque stroll where the nature always dictates the tempo.

Hiking, biking and adventure in the Serchio Valley

From Bargaa thousand paths wind their way to the surrounding heights. Hikers will enjoy it (and sometimes their blisters too). I tested the trail leading to the Monte Foratoa strange mountain with a huge natural hole in the top. Apuan Alps. A word of advice: leave early, take water with you, and take a break to enjoy the wild panoramas of the Serchio valley and the Garfagnana.

Staying in Barga also means making the most of a vacation in the heart of the region thanks to charming accommodation: those wishing to rent a house, for example, have a wide choice of villa rentals in Tuscany equipped with swimming pools and terraces for admiring the surrounding scenery.

More down-to-earth? Rent a bike and explore the surrounding area. The winding roads reveal small hamlets clinging to the slopes, where you sometimes doubt that the letter carrier still dares to climb. All under the peaceful gaze of mountains in the distance and cypress trees leaning gently in the breeze.

Tastings, festivals and the Tuscan art of living

Because true adventure never excludes simple pleasures. À Bargagoasting the local cuisine is quickly becoming more important than visiting a dusty museum. Between rustic polenta and mature cheeses from the Garfagnana (yes, the ones you also find on the markets of Lucca), every meal is a return to basics. Hand-cut cured meats from the little shop near Porta Macchiaia have saved more than one hungry tourist!

Lovers of top-of-the-range comfort will be seduced by the possibility of reserving a luxury villa in Tuscany to enjoy an exceptional setting combining refinement and authenticity after a day of gastronomic and cultural discoveries.

Festivities punctuate the season: don't miss the traditional fish'n'chips festival (a nod to the large Scottish community in the area). Barga) or the Sagra del Pesce e Patate, which attracts 1TP132 local Turmets and idle onlookers from all over Italy. Tuscany.

  • Barga Jazz Festival in August
  • Sagra della Polenta end of January
  • Saint Christopher's Daythe town's patron saint, at the end of July
  • Farmers' markets every Saturday in the main square

How do you get to Barga from Lucca or Florence without losing your head?

Ah, the glamour of the Italian regional train... Personally, taking the train Lucques-Aulla is still my favorite way to reach Barga - sure, you may be shaken like a bottle of Chianti forgotten in the back seat of a Fiat Panda, but the journey is well worth the detour. Just get off at Barga-Gallicanothen climb (a few more kilometers) to the medieval city center. Courage, climbing is part of the folklore.

By car, about 40 minutes from Lucca (if you avoid gravel trucks and flocks of weekend cyclists). For sweat and pedal enthusiasts, the SP7 route offers a challenge worthy of the Giro d'Italia: gradual climbs, tight bends, spectacular views over the Tuscan hills covered with vineyards.

From Approximate time Recommended medium
Lucca 40 min Car or train + bus
Florence 1h40 Car
Pisa 1h20 Train or car

Frequently asked questions about Barga, its history and activities in the province of Lucca

Where exactly is Barga in the province of Lucca?

Barga nestles in the heart of the Serchio valleynorth of the province of Luccain Tuscany. The town occupies a strategic position between the wild Garfagnana mountains and the sweet Tuscan hillsoffering impressive panoramic views of the Apuan Alps. Easily accessible by train or car from Lucca and FlorenceIt's ideal for discovering a more authentic side of Tuscany.

Here is its precise location:

City Region Province
Barga Tuscany Lucca

What are the typical culinary specialities in Barga and the Garfagnana?

The flavours of Barga and Garfagnana celebrate the simplicity of local products: chestnut flour, polenta, local cheeses, etc. mountainartisanal charcuterie. Tradition demands that you taste:

  • Polenta di Neccio (based on chestnut flour)
  • Crostini Toscani
  • Mountain-aged Pecorino
  • Porchetta and salsiccia homemade

And let's not forget the local red wines and a few local delicacies such as the castagnaccio (chestnut cake)!

What must you see on your first visit to Barga?

For a complete immersion in the atmosphere medievalbegins with the Duomo perched at the very top of the city, then stroll through the historic district to the Teatro dei Differentia famous 18th-century theatere century. In the main square, enjoy a drink with the locals, observe typical Italian daily life or take part in a farmers' market if you're there on a Saturday. And don't forget to push open the door of the Porta Realediscover the Loggia del Mercatoand stroll down the flower-lined alleyways to the old-fashioned stalls.

If you have more time, make a loop around the ramparts, then walk leisurely to the Casa Pascoli (birthplace of the poet Giovanni Pascoli), now transformed into a museum dedicated to the region's history and literature. Finally, end your visit with a gourmande stop at a local osteria, or simply enjoy the view from the natural promontories for which the area is famous. Barga and the entire Garfagnana.

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