Villages to visit in the province of Lucca: authentic Tuscany away from the crowds

Imagine an escapade where every bend in the road gives you a postcard-perfect backdrop. Instead of passing hordes of tourists lined up for a selfie under the Tuscan sun, you stroll through the cobblestone streets scented with basil and mystery. That's what made me fall in love with medieval villages in the province of Lucca (Lucca, if you want to shine in Italian). If following three guided groups in Florence makes you break out in a cold sweat, this article is your secret gateway to the real Dolce Vita - the confidential version, with a few sharp jabs at our friends in mass tourism.

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What makes the province of Lucca so special?

You're still hesitating to explore these towns and villages in Tuscany when everyone else is heading straight for Siena or Pisa? Well, then.., Luccais this pearl set between the Garfagnana to the north and the luminous Versilia to the southwest. Here, you queue up in front fewer crowded churches and cathedralsbut you gain a thousand times more in authenticity.

In 2023, Tuscany attracted around 14 million visitors according to the Tuscany region. Guess what? Most of them never made it past the walls and ramparts of Lucca nor walked the shady streets of Barga ! You already know where to go... But let me take you where the crowds haven't yet gathered.

Between hills and mountains: medieval villages not to be missed

As a good epicurean, I wore my shoes to the bone. Garfagnanathis mountainous treasure to the north, to discover perfectly preserved medieval villages - without extras in polyester suits. Here, the raw naturethe stones weathered by the centuries Perfect for meditating on the deeper meaning of pasta.

Barga: elegance and panoramic views of the Garfagnana

BargaIt's the kind of town you visit in the morning and leave at dusk (after enjoying a local red wine). Ranked among Italy's most beautiful villageshe offers his colorful houseshis perched cathedral (panoramic views guaranteed) and perfect spots for a wine tasting on the terrace. Musicians flock here, as the atmosphere has a little goût of vintage romanticism.

Stop off in the main piazza for a coffee, then push open the door of the old church overlooking the town. Here, you take your time: even Google Maps slows down as the signal is so poorly received. My secret tip? Follow the path behind the cathedral to admire the mist-shrouded valley at dawn.

Castelnuovo di Garfagnana: fortifications and lively markets

Impossible to mention Garfagnana without quoting Castelnuovo di Garfagnana. This fortified center exudes tradition, with its Rocca Ariostesca who has watched over the weekly market for centuries. The local atmosphere is lively: there are no staid settings here, and life is in full swing around the historic ramparts and walls.

In the central square, buy cheese and charcuterie direct from the producers. Visit pecorino goasting here almost made me want to move. For hikers, it's also an excellent starting point for the Tosco-Emilian Appennine mountains. If you'd like to expand your discoveries outside the province of Lucca, discover also authentic villages elsewhere in Tuscany.

Fosciandora and Coreglia Antelminelli: off the beaten track

For those seeking discretion, head south of Castelnuovo towards Fosciandora and Coreglia Antelminelli. Two little-known but incredibly picturesque villages. Between cracked ramparts and arched doorways, the panoramic views of the hills are breathtaking. Only the sound of a fountain occasionally disturbs the silence... When visiting the region, don't miss the following must-see experiences Lucca.

Coreglia is famous for its terracotta figurines (the famous "figurinaio"), on display at the local museum. You can also discover peaceful churchesideal for escaping the heat on sun-drenched afternoons. You've been warned! 🚶

Versilia and the plain: Tuscany by the sea and the dolce vita

After the fresh mountain air, I invite you to descend to the VersiliaA chic coastal strip where the province is decked out in its finest summer finery. Most people flock to the beach, but forget about the real nuggets: hilltop villagesgolden evening light, the scent of maritime pine mingled with sea salt...

Camaiore and Pietrasanta: hidden artistic charm

Pietrasantathe capital of sculptural art thanks to its proximity to Carrara, attracts lovers of historic squaresof art galleries and old cafés. Between a stroll through the workshops and a cup of homemade gelato (yes, very different from that caught in Florence...), take the time to look up at theSan Martino church. Here, refined restaurants and terraces vibrate to the rhythm of local artists. Yes, you can eat well, with a view AND inspiration.

And then Camaioresurrounded by hills planted with olive trees, offers a wide range of quiet lanesa well-kept historic center, several superb religious buildings... and trattorias where the focaccia soaked in virgin olive oil makes you forget your diet. Summary: Tuscany without angry scooters or industrial sausages.

Lido di Camaiore: a relaxing break before the next adventure

For combo lovers beach-village, Lido di Camaiore is a must. Far from the bling of Forte dei Marmi, this more affordable corner alternates strolls along the pierimprovised aperitifs in family bars on the seafront, while remaining close to all inland villages. Who said idleness and cultural discovery were mutually exclusive?

Little secret: at the end of June-beginning of July, the beach empties, the wind freshens the air, and the villages resume their slow pace. An ideal time to enjoy the excursions and guided tours organized throughout the province: you'll pass incognito among the well-informed locals.

4-person villas

Villas with swimming pool

Detached villas

Villas for 20 people

Last minute offer!

The cheapest

With private pool

Lucca, the secret capital: Piazza Anfiteatro, ramparts and other delights

It's impossible to talk about the province without making an extended stop at Lucca herself. If you think you know typical Tuscan towns and villageswaiting to see old town encircled by its famous ramparts and walls forming a 4 km urban park. To walk on it is to dominate the city, with your hair blowing in the wind - or dishevelled by a cyclist in a hurry.

The historic center is regorge of small squares, including the mythical Piazza AnfiteatroThe oval shape of an ancient Roman amphitheatre. Even the grumpy ones fall for its café terraces. Come early, enjoy a cappuccino against the yellow facades, listen to the shutters slam gently... I promise you that the word "bati-bati" (chatter) will take on a whole new flavor here.

The churches and cathedrals there's no shortage of them: my favourite is San Michele in Foroproudly set in an ancient Roman piazza. It's the ideal place to find peace and quiet after zigzagging between two processions of rented bikes... Yes, even Lucca can sometimes be a tourist hotspot. But as soon as night falls, the magic returns.

Gastronomy and vineyards: the icing on the Tuscan cake

Let's be honest: it's impossible to leave without sacrificing part of your budget (and your belt) to the local cuisine. Many villages offer wine tastings in family estates, especially around Montecarlo. I shared a meal at a winemaker's, laughing (despite my awkward Italian) at a farandole of regional specialties bathed in chianti - nothing like the timed tastings in tourist areas.

• Montecarlo dry white wine Light, fruity, perfect as an aperitif.
• Local delicatessen and breads impossible to resist, calories forgotten!
• Buccellato lucchese Aniseed-flavored sweet bread that would make Parisian viennoiseries pale in comparison.

Feel the rural heartbeat of Tuscany? Choose wine tours and excursions. Much more rewarding than taking the same photo a hundred times in front of the leaning tower of the famous neighbor...

Frequently asked questions about villages to visit in Lucca province